Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Burning Through VI - Casting Back while Moving Forward

Burning Through

I’m traveling blind now, heading south into the full length of the Baja. The first hour of this trip, to Ensenada, the first kilometers south of Tijuana peaks my interest. I begin to see and smell Mexico outside of the bus terminal and I like it. Arriving in Ensenada, I begin a series of firsts. First shower in over 3 days of bus travel, first sit down meal, first horizontal sleep…

I need rest and I begin a time of collection, collecting my thoughts, assessing possibilities, resting and gaining strength.

My mind peels back through my journey to here, specifically my Greyhound melting pot rollick through America. There was Portland on the first snowy night of winter, the first of many Greyhound delays. I am one of many Los Angeles bound travelers in a weary line snaking through the station. There is not much to do in the line up but talk to the guy in front of me. Hence, through Hans, I am introduced to Republican America.

Hans is: Swiss Texan, Spanish speaking, Special Military Forces, Canadian criminal code studying, Republican bible thumping American. He tells me has just come from Vancouver where he wore his black US law enforcement officer gear “to scare all the pinko Canadians.” “Why do you allow your immigrants to stay separate in their little communities?” I make an unimpressive attempt to explain the rationale for multiculturalism, that encouraging and celebrating cultural diversity promotes social cohesion, but he dismisses this as typical Canadian liberalism.

It’s okay, we agree to disagree. There is a nano second of silence before he once again waves his Republican stripes. “I love George Bush, he has been the savior of America. In fact I worship Him.”

I … I … I don’t quite know how to respond. I know he is provoking me, inciting reaction. This is when 12 years of yoga and reflection comes in handy. I stumble, “ You … you must be upset with the election of Obama.“ Dismissive, he moves us to the next topic. I am both repulsed and attracted to him, using the opportunity to test my resolve, to remain present and engaged with somebody whose world view is so opposite to mine. His mixture of strong opinions and open mind intrigues me.

The bus trip will present many of these kinds of opportunities. Ear plugs and traveling pillow will not shelter me from the social hurricane that whips around me. America is on the move for the holidays. She stops at all night gas stations, stalked with 7-11 hoagies, jumbo soft drinks, and complete with grease puking taco bell franchise. Greyhound America is fat with fast food. Over the course of two days my bus mates change but stay the same. I recognize several who stood in line with me on the frozen dark tarmac off Main Street at the Vancouver terminal.

You share a bus trip with people for 12 hours or more and you begin to imagine a brotherhood. Yet, this brotherhood has separate agendas. We all just want to get to our destination. Sooner rather than later.

Now here I am in Ensenada. All of that seems like a dream now. My sights are set on what lay south of here, down the long stretch of desert to the south. I’ve gathered a few destinations from a conversation in a coffee shop and make plans to leave the next day. Time is running out. Christmas is in 2 days and I want to be somewhere warm and sunny before Feliz Navidad. Where will I go?

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